heads!! Great!! We stopped at some one horse town for lunch and we ate the last of my empanadas rather than an overpriced Argentinean lunch affair!! To be honest the rest of the day consisted of being too hot and driving through monotonous steppe scenery - by the time we got to Perito Moreno we’d had enough and were glad to get off the bus and into our dorm room in the hostel. There wasn’t much to do in the town so after a quick trip to the supermarket, we had dinner at the hostel with a couple of beers and had a fairly early night. We were really not looking forward to the next day at all!! We both felt that after everything in Argentina being such good quality and value that it was a real shame that this was the first time we’d felt like we were being ripped off. This tour was not cheap at all and after being used to such great busses in Argentina to have been sit in desert style heat with no air-con in separate seats was just not what we were used to!!

Once again in the morning the tour guides didn’t seem to know their arse from their elbow and we ended up waiting around for 45 minutes while they decided which bus we were going to on!! As it turned out we were on a very old and rickety looking minibus!! We took one look at it and thought “On No!!” As it turned out though, it was better than the one the day before. It could go faster than the bigger bus and the skylight and windows opened giving us more ventilation. After a couple of hours the monotonous scenery was broken by a view of an enormous snow capped mountain on the horizon - we’d finally caught sight of the Andes!! Just after this we turned off towards what was supposedly the highlight of the trip - the Cueva de los Manos, or the Cave of the Hands. This is an ancient settlement where there were cave paintings, some dating back 9,000 years!! The guidebook also said that it was set in a beautiful canyon which was a really good