down was strictly four wheel drive only though, and we could still feel the two long lava walks in our legs too much to consider walking down, so we settled for a long and lazy look from the top as the sun went down!!

So all too quickly it was time to say goodbye to Laupahoehoe, and we were off to the other die of the Island, to a site called Kapa'a beach park. The western side of the Island is very different to the east. Because the trade winds almost always blow from the East, the West coast is in the rain shadow of the volcanoes, and so gets hardly any rain, and in complete contrast it is a hot, dry, almost parched landscape. It was not really our cup of tea after the lush landscape of the west, and this feeling was proved correct when we got to the campsite. There was hardly anywhere to pitch our tents, and what ground there was seemed to be as bumpy as a ploughed field!! Still the views

out to sea were good, and we even got a glimpse of Maui in the distance, so we ate and watched an absolutely stunning sunset and decided to make the most of it. That was until the first moment it can really have been considered to be dark. It very quickly became apparent that the entire site was infested with cockroaches. They descended on us so fast as darkness fell that we all ran for cover in the car. Matters very quickly became worse when we realised that all the food bags which we threw into the car with us were also full of them. We were still finding them in the car two days later!! YUK!! We decided there and then that we were leaving the next morning, and had a very early and uneasy nights sleep!

The next morning the plan was to head back to Laupahoehoe, as we had liked it there. There was a bit of interest in the morning between us and some guys who had arrived after we’d crashed when