tanker, which has apparently been there for three years as there is an ongoing argument over whose responsibility it is to clear it up! The monsoon was still in effect, it rained for short bursts almost every morning, but not for long enough to really spoil anything, and in between the showers it was really nice weather. We had planned to spend a night at one of the beaches we visited, but we found that nowhere was really open, so we stayed at Myc's again and decided that we'd go off to explore South Goa for a week or so.

Our first port of call was Panjim, which Lonely Planet had described as the nicest State Capital in India, although that wasn't saying much, it was still a busy city, although we found a nice rustic guest house, and a fantastic Portuguese restaurant, so it wasn't all bad!! The next morning we headed for Old Goa, the old Portuguese capital, which apparently once rivaled Lisbon

in its Grandeur. All that is left now though are four truly huge Churches, which can be seen from the bus on the riverside when approaching, and it really is quite a stunning sight. We checked in at the only hotel in town, a Government run place which was adequate, but definatley not luxurious. We had a look round the churches, which were just as Grand inside as out, and then had the worst meal we've had in India, a Thali for the equivalent of 30p, the price was the only good point to its true disgustingness!! The best thing about the hotel was great TV reception, unusual in India, so we settled in to watch a couple of movies complete with crisps, biscuits and cashew nuts!!

The next morning we awoke to torrential rain. No problem we thought, we'll just wait in reception for it to go off. Hmmmmmmm. One hour later and it showed no signs of abating, and we'd made the decision to leave our