distance were sight to behold. As we watched a feint amber glow started to give a truly eerie backlight to the whole scene, and this was one of the moments I will remember for the rest of my life. Watching as the sky became first pink and then orange with the most magnificent skyline made the hairs stand up on the back of my neck!! The peace was a little shattered as the masses gradually turned up, an in fact by the time the sun finally rose at around six, there were more people there than the day before at 8 o clock!! We were very grateful to our driver for bringing us so early! Once the sun had risen we decided to retreat from the crowds and head off for our staple breakfast of Omelette and bread, which the Cambodians do pretty well, particularly the bread. A legacy left by the French!! Next on the agenda was Phnom Kullen, 50 Km from Siem Reap, which after a short stop at another temple gave us both the opportunity to nod off in the back of our tuk tuk! The main attraction at Phnom Kullen is a waterfall,

which entails a half hour hike uphill. This was pretty gruelling, as all the steep steps we’d climbed over the last couple of days were really starting to take their toll on our leg muscles - particularly at the top of our legs! And our driver set off up the hill at an alarming rate of knots! It was the first time ever we were glad when we got stuck behind a group of slowcoach old biddies!!!!! However, it was well worth it, the walk took us through amazing jungle scenery, and then at the top there was a stream with the maddest shapes carved under the water - it turns out that it is dry outside of the rainy season, which is when they were carved. The waterfall itself was beautiful, a real gem set amongst the trees and paddling in the cold water was sheer bliss in the humid heat of the day!! After climbing back down and having some lunch it was universally agreed that one more temple would be enough for the day, as we’d already been out for ten hours, which turned into twelve by the time we’d finished -